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 VAO 9 5
 
 and do not want their wives observed by strangers.
 These enclosures are very close together, and only
 narrow lanes permit circulation. As we turn a
 corner we may see a woman disappear quickly,
 giggling, while children run away with terrified howls,
 for whatthe black man is to ours the white man is
 to them.
 
 Having won the confidence of a native, we may
 be taken into his courtyard, where there is little to
 be seen, as all the social life goes on in the gamals
 or on the dancing—grounds. A dozen simple huts
 stand irregularly about the square, some half decayed
 and serving as pigsties. One hut belongs to the
 master, and each of his wives has a house of her
 own,.in which to bring up her children. The yard
 is alive with pigs and fowls and dogs and children,
 more or less peacefully at play.
 
 In Vao, as in all Melanesia, the pig is the most
 valued of animals. All the thoughts of the native
 circle round the pig; for with pigs he can buy what-
 ever his heart desires: he can have an enemy killed,
 he can purchase many women, he can attain the
 highest social standing, he can win paradise. No
 wonder, then, that the Vao pigs are just as carefully
 nursed, if not more so, than the children, and that
 it is the most important duty of the old matrons to
 watch over the welfare of the pigs. To call a young
 beauty “pig’s foot,” “pig’s nose,” “pig’s tail,” or
 similar endearing names is the greatest compliment a
 lover can pay. But only the male pigs are esteemed,
 the females are of account only as a necessary in—
 
 
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