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 144 WITH NATIVES IN THE WESTERN PACIFIC
 
 bracelets, and wear the curved tusks of pigs on their
 wrists. There is just time before nightfall to take
 their measures and photographs, then I retire into
 the gamal for my supper, during which I am closely
 observed by the entire male population. They make
 remarks about the spoons and the Worcester sauce,
 and when I put sugar into my tea, they whisper to
 each other, “Salt!” which idea is almost enough to
 spoil one’s appetite, only the delicious roast sucking-
 pig is too tempting.
 
 My toilet for the night is watched with the same
 attention; then, while I am still reading on my bed,
 the men seek their couches in the long, low house.
 They stir up all the fires, which smoke terribly, then
 they lie down on their bamboo beds, my boys among
 them, and talk and talk till they fall asleep,—a house-
 ful of leprous and consumptive men, who cough and
 groan all night.
 
 In front of me, near the entrance, is the chief’s
 place. He spends a long time in preparing his kava,
 and drinks it noisily. Kava is a root which is
 ground with a piece of sharp coral; the fibres are
 then mixed with water, which is contained in a long
 bamboo, and mashed to a soft pulp; the liquid is
 then squeezed out, strained through a piece of cocoa-
 nut bark into a cocoa-nut bowl and drunk. The
 liquid has a muddy, thick appearance, tastes like
 soapy water, stings like peppermint and acts as a
 sleeping-draught. In Santo only chiefs are allowed
 to drink kava.
 
 At first, innumerable dogs disturbed my sleep,
 
 
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