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 PENTECOSTE 2 3 9
 
 against me on this occasion, and inside of twelve
 hours I missed the steamer no less than three times,
 which, in the New Hebrides, implies a delay of four
 weeks.
 
 50, in a heavy whale-boat, I rowed along the
 coast toward Olal with some natives. A dull rain
 drenched us, followed by glaring sunshine that
 stewed us in heavy dampness. Like the ruins of a
 giant wall, black lava blocks lay here and there
 along the coast. The surf foamed white in the
 crevasses, and the forest rose, sallow and greenish-
 yellow, above the high bank. Here and there naked
 natives squatted on the rocks, motionless, or looking
 lazily for crabs ; among the huge boulders they looked
 tiny, and their colouring scarcely distinguished them
 from their surroundings; so that they seemed rather
 like animals, or the shyest of cave—dwellers. Floating
 slowly on the grey sea, in the sad broken light, I
 thought I had never seen a more inhospitable coast.
 
 Owing to the heavy swell, we had difficulty in
 passing through the narrow channel inside the reef.
 The great rollers pounded against the coral banks,
 and poured back in a thousand white streamlets, like
 a wonderful cascade, to be swallowed by the next
 wave.
 
 I found my friend, Mr. D., in a sad state with
 fever, cold and loneliness; wrapped up in woollen
 caps, blankets and heavy clothes, he looked more
 like an Arctic explorer than a dweller near the
 Equator. He spoke of leaving the islands, and,
 indeed, did so some months later.
 
 
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